Tag Archives: Le Marais

TEA TRAVELS

CAPTIVATING DAMMANN

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When I think of Paris,  I think of Cafes. Since my first visit to the City of Lights, I was entranced by the cafe culture that is an integral part of French life.   I had made the assumption that espresso was the go to hot beverage of the French.   I was terribly wrong.  On my most recent visit to Paris, I quickly learned that France has as a long and enchanting history with tea.  

King Louis XIV, The Sun King, had endeavored during his rule of France, to capture the trade markets of the world. Explorers were bringing tea with them when they returned from long voyages across deserts and oceans.  He had the vision to establish and capture the tea trade and become the ruler of European tea traders.   He made it his mission to establish healthy trade with the far lands of the earth and bring their riches back to the shores of Europe.  His tradesman established houses and strong legacies that have survived the centuries. 

One of those traders, Damman, was commissioned by the king to import tea. This house preserved and reignited the legacy in the 1920’s by the Dammann brothers.  

Dammann is many things, but above all it is a company that produces many of the most exquisite teas of the world.   The company is worldwide and their mission is to source the best teas form where they are discovered, which happens to be many countries scattered over several continents. 

I was lucky that my hotel had a selection of tea from Damman and that prompted me to visit their anchor store in Le Marais. My breakfast tea had been so filled with light and enchanting flavors, I was invited to visit one of their ateliers in Paris.  

Their anchor store is located in Le Marais, so I decided to make an afternoon of it and headed out for a walk across the ancient center of the city to find Dammann. When I reached Le Marais, it was a quiet afternoon in Le Marais. Le Marais is the oldest part of Paris. Its streets are ancient and charming.  Narrow, cobblestoned streets wind through Le Marais; many leading to beautiful parks and hidden courtyards.   Le Marais has become a sought out neighborhood and many of the residents establish boutiques with fine goods there.  The stores are eclectic and colorful; offering up some of the finest goods to be found in Paris.  I found my way to the Damman boutique after a thouroughly entertaining walk through the district. The inside was paneled in dark, sophisticated wood paneling and lovely graphics were  positioned above interesting displays of tea and equipment for making tea.  With the dark, elegant decor and the walls lined with canisters of tea, it was like walking into another world, filled with elegance and a product created to delight the senses.  It was not just a store, but an experience where tea could be sampled examined and tasted.   

In several areas, there were displays of fresh tea, which could be sampled. There were also all kinds of tea cups, tea pots and tea infusers and beautiful gift boxes; some clad in leather with a snap to secure the lid that enclosed the tea. The impression was of elegance, refinement and fine tea. The teas I sampled were fresh and each possessed it’s own unique, inviting aroma.    I was especially drawn to the Jaune Lemon Green Tea in crystal sachets and brought some home with me.  

Visiting Dammann is a window to the first days of the tea trade in France.  It’s also a showcase of the finest calibers of tea available in the world. If you love tea, this is a tea shop that should not be missed. 

 

TEA TRAVELS

Parisienne Tea Traders Marriage Freres

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The aromas of ancient teas drifted slowly on the soft currents that circulated the historic tea room of Marriage Freres. The original location  in Le Marais of Ancient Paris was paneled in wood hundred of years old and saturated in tea.   I was in heaven, Paris and Marriage Freres. Old tea trading artifacts and tea trade route maps hung upon the walls and an exotic palms festooned the corners of the tea room.  Each table was exquisitely dressed in stamped linen and fine china  with the tea house insignia.  The silver was polished to a high sheen.  There was a pastry case filled with elegant and complex patisserie to accompany and compliment the fine teas.  

It began in 1660 when Nicolas Marriage was dispatched by King Louis  XIV to establish trade with the exotic East.  Marriage passed his trade to his sons and eventually the company was born and has survived through the centuries.  Marco Polo was a Venetian merchant who  traveled to the Orient in the 1200’s and brought spices, teas and exotic goods back with him to Europe. This inspired King Louis to establish his own house of trade to bring fine and exotic teas from the edge of the world.  

The tea room light in Marriage Freres is golden and colorful at the same time.  It speaks of another time; times of adventure to lands unknown filled with mysteries to be solved and magic to be transported back to the shores of Europe. The interior is filled with ancient wooden shelving and compartmentalized little cubby holes to hold the teas and equipment for making the perfect cup of tea. There were beautiful  artful silver teapots shaped like a camel, purple clay teapots from China, English porcelain teapots. It’s a museum of tea and of tea’s fascinating and enduring history.

 

I was seated at a small cafe table and I ordered the Marco Polo tea. I wanted to see how the life of Marco Polo could be captured in a tea.  A man who loved adventure, travel, art and the good things in life.  A person who had been privy to all the world’s gifts, cultures and experiences. When I think of Polo thoughts of fine silks in every hue of the rainbow, delicious confections and drinks and beautiful accoutrements to add joy and beauty to your life come to mind. 

The Marco Polo teas was described on the menu as a mysterious blend that will take you to distant lands
and unforeseen territories. Fragrances of Chinese and Tibetan flowers lend it a uniquely velvety taste. It’s extraordinary bouquet makes Marco Polo the most legendary of flavoured teas.
 
A teapot encased in silver was brought to the table with the tea steeping inside and brewing magic.   
 

I poured a cup and took a sip.  The aroma was light, floral and exotic and the perfume was delicate and smooth as it passed it over my palette.   The tea was incredibly refreshing.  After a cup, a sense of well-being  arose from within  and suddenly all was right with the world.  

As I drank the tea, I thought of the excitement of the trade routes.  Journeying on camel through vast deserts filled with nomads and mystery around every turn.   Raw and dangerous beauty that blew over the landscape.   

I became a convert to Marriage Freres teas then and there.   My server was an attractive young student that spoke several languages. We had a great discourse on what our favorite teas were and why.   He was extremely attentive and made sure that my  tea experience was relaxing and enjoyable. I was impressed by his knowledge of teas and of the various equipment to make an awesome cup of tea any how it should be brewed.  

In the US we learn about tradesman in history.  Mostly when learning about the settling of the 13 colonies and the way of life during those times centuries ago. It was amazing to actually be in the showroom of a tradesman that flourished and established a house of trade that had endured over three hundred years.   The brand had managed to stay intact and maintain the quality that had been initially suited to one of the greatest kings the world has ever known. 

TEA TRAVELS

Secret Food Tours Le Marais

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When I had decided to return to Paris after a 16 year absence, I wanted it to be fun, relaxing and immerse myself in French Culture.  I searched for opportunities to achieve this goal and came across Secret Food Tours.  The company describes itself as “We are truly passionate about showcasing mouthwatering and irresistible secret foods from all corners of the globe. Every year, our experienced, local, foodie guides show thousands of people the best and most delicious foods a city has to offer. Each tour is fun, highly rated, and completely unique to its destination — no two tours are the same. We take great pride in highlighting the best secret bites loved by locals and overlooked by tourists. Our tours have over 5,000 5-star reviews, so we know you’ll love them too. Learn about each city’s history, how locals buy food, and how food has shaped the area’s culture. All our tours feature a special Secret Dish selected by our guides that you can only find out about on the tour, with drink upgrades available as well. Perfect for all ages and all occasions, we can’t wait to share with you all of our in-the-know secrets. An authentic, unforgettable experience that will leave you full and happy.” 

When I discovered this on Google, I was so excited and knew this was exactly the kind of tour I was looking for.  Secret Food Tours has created tours that explore the best of local cuisine along with traditional parings of beverages. They have carefully curated experiences to indulge in local specialities that are not always advertised to the general public.  Their websites boast tours in 26 countries around the world. In Paris, the tours cover three districts, Le Marais(SoMa), Montmartre and Saint Germain.   I liked the idea that they were well established and obviously were making every effort to make this a memorable experience. I decided to go for it.  Booking was a smooth process via their lovely website filled with beautiful pics and helpful information.  

Google describes Le Marais as ” The fashionable Marais district in the 4th arrondissement, also known as SoMa(South Marais), is filled with hip boutiques, galleries and gay bars. Once the city’s Jewish quarter, the area still hosts numerous kosher restaurants.  The grassy Place des Vosges is home to elegant arcades and the Musee Victor Hugo, where the writer lived.”

 I decided to go for the Le Marais tour.  I was fascinated by the Marais and 35 years ago,  had actually lived in an artist’s garret.  When I had decided to leave the tiny studio, it had torn at my heart to have to leave.  That’s the way the Marais was, it permeated you soul and your very being. 

Le Marais held all the mysteries of the world within it’s walls.  It was over 1000 years old and a site embedded with spiritualism.  It housed the Jewish quarter; where 80 years ago tragedy struck during the occupation, but the Marais survived.   The streets wound, twisted and turned sometimes ending up nowhere in a dead end.   The buildings were constructed of stone from the Roman Era and massive doorways of petrified, thick slabs of wood which shuttered secreted, grassy courtyards.  The courtyards were  filled with trees, and grass and birds chirped and danced among the foliage. 

So, I headed up to the Marias for a tour of the ancient district in Paris.   I say up because I was lodged in the very center of Paris for a one week stay in the Latin Quarter adjacent to the Seine River,  which flows through Paris.  So I walked down from the Luxembourg Gardens to the Metro.  Once on the Metro, the sleek train ascended to the level of the Marais and I disembarked near the starting point of the tour.   Eventhough I was a tour guide myself back in the USA,  it had been years since I’d been on one myself.  As I neared the starting point, I felt the excitement building and couldn’t wait to meet my tour guide.  

  

So the day had arrived and there I was waiting where our tour was about to launch.  I noticed a young woman standing in my vicinity.  She appeared to be searching for someone and it turned out she was there for the tour as well.   We had a nice chat and soon a very chic, Parisienne woman arrived and introduced herself as our guide. Her name was Capucine.  I immediately could tell form her genuine and engaging smile and her command of the English language, this this was going to be a very fun and interesting tour.   So, I’m not allowed to say where we went or what we ate, because then it wouldn’t be a secret anymore and it would defeat the purpose of taking a Secret Food Tour, but I can tell you why I loved this tour, so let’s begin! 

First, our guide, Capucine was amazing! She was so friendly and I felt comfortable immediately.  Her manners were impeccable and she took a genuine interest in all of her guests and answered all of questions fully. (There were actually just two of us since this was in the middle of the week, in the afternoon: myself and Anne; and lovely young woman who was amazingly accomplished and humble.)  Capucine made us feel completely comfortable and we were soon chatting, laughing and have an awesome time as we toured various award winning establishments that specialized in traditional French dishes in Le Marais. 

Capucine’s  breadth of knowledge of the Marais was in depth and layered. She knew the history from ancient times to the the present.  Her enthusiasm for the subject was evident by her smile and all of the small interesting details she provided.   No matter what questions I asked her, she answered all my questions fully with interesting information that satisfied my curiosity. I was fascinated by the rich history and how this influenced the dietary choices of the French. How history had impacted the evolution of French food. 

The next important thing I can tell you about this tour is the food.  It’s delicious! We had a broad range of food that represented traditional French cuisine from across France as well as Le Marais. The tasting ranged from sweet to savory; appetizers, wine and full dishes.  There was street food and staples of every French person’s diet.   It was incredibly fresh and well prepared and the presentation beautiful. I invested the extra 10 euros for beverages and it didn’t disappoint.  We were served carefully chosen wines that were paired perfectly with the dishes.   

Most important,  was the ambiance.   We ate in picturesque, comfortable settings, while Capucine explained the history of the dishes, the ingredients and how they were prepared.  She shared several secrets and mysteries of the Marais, that I  can’t divulge here, but she definitely captured the essence of the district and why it is so well loved and one of the most popular districts to visit in Paris. Her stories transported us from ancient times to the present and were so well thought out and presented that I didn’t realize how quickly the three hour tour passed and how far we had walked.  

The tour was three hours and it’s just enough time to experience several stops with various types of dishes and have a good leisurely stroll through Le Marais.  The experience captures the very famous way of living; joie de vivre, that the French are known and loved for.   An enjoyment of all good things that life has to offer and an exultation of spirit. So, If you are in Paris and want a fun and fascinating afternoon, this is your tour.   Le  Marais is beautiful and magical and will spirit you away to another time.  You will be surrounded by beauty, enjoy excellent cuisine and be entertained by the  best company.  And if you are very lucky, Capucine will be your guide. 

DURATION – THREE HOURS

WALKING: SLOW, EASY, UNEVEN SURFACES

EATING:  MAKE SURE YOU DON’T EAT BEFORE THIS TOUR.  YOU WILL NEED ROOM!  

BATHROOM STOPS:  MANY IF YOU NEED THEM.