All posts by J. Stern

History, Coffee, A Market

Tea travels headed off to historic Los Angeles for a quick weekend getaway.  Los Angeles was founded in 1769 by Spanish explorers. That’s almost 300 years ago. Just shy of 300 by 45 years. The city is old, spread out and the home of diverse cultures from around the world.  I wanted to check out The Grand Central Market in downtown Los Angeles. The market has been in existence since 1917.  Los Angeles was experiencing exponential growth at that time and the population was booming. The downtown was busy and thriving. There were new and exciting ventures coming into existence at a fast pace and the theatre industry took hold downtown as well.  The market was meant to cater to a diverse group of citizens that were excited, entrepreneurial and pouring their energies to create the most successful city economy in existence.  The market evolved to meet the sophisticated needs of the burgeoning population. 

The market has evolved over the past 100 plus years.  It’s now a hub of historic, and well loved eateries and many new restaurants too.  I stayed at The Biltmore for good measure and to immerse myself in the DTLA scene.  The hotel has withstood the ravages of time and remains a glorious blend of Beaux Arts, and Spanish-Italian Revival architecture. The hotel has been well maintained and sits facing Pershing Square, that is currently under renovation, and quite nice with all of the new changes.  After a lovely night’s sleep and sleeping in. I headed over to The Grand Central Market.  First thing on the agenda was micro shopping at an Elove popup in the basement. Elove had a small pop up of lovely handmade tees that I couldn’t resist.  The tees are made of heavy cotton and embroidered with calls to action to normalize mental health challenges.   A mission to normalize human diversity and foster acceptance. 

After the shopping, I was needing some fuel,  and I decided on the The China Cafe for lunch.  The China Cafe has been in existence since the 1950’s. The original counter and signage remains unchanged. The food is delicious and servings are more than generous. I ordered boiled noodles with hard boiled eggs, veggies, bits of chicken, and ended up having to take most of the huge portion home. Afterwards, I stopped at G&B coffee for desert. The baristas know their stuff here and the coffee is amazing. The deserts are fresh and organic and absolutely melt in your mouth with deliciousness.  After this great meal, it was time to absorb it all, and head out to new places to explore.  This little excursion to DTLA was really fun and I planned to do it again soon with more walking the next time, and exploring the bevy of sites to see.   

Desert Cafe

DESERT CAFE

Winter can be shocking in Southern California, the land of tequila sunrises, and purple haze sunsets.  It’s mostly warm here, but occasionally the temperatures dip low enough for it to snow all the way from the Malibu beaches to the high desert. If you take a deep dive into historic photo archives, you can find many images of citrus groves, and other surrounds with a frosting of snow.  Chilly enough to see your breath, and make the tip of your nose turn red.  

This is a great time to head out to the desert, particularly Palm Desert.  Here you can find glorious blue skies, swaying palm trees, and fresh desert air warm enough to reset your body temperature and relax. So that’s where Tea Travels went.  A getaway to experience all that the desert has to give and to warm up a bit. 

The were several takeaways from this amazing mini-vaca.  Number one, the effect of the unparalleled beauty of the Southern Californian desert. The rainbow hues that light up the sky at sunrise and sunset.  The flora and fauna, both exotic and austere.  There are easy hikes up into the canyons to get a feel for the origins of Native American mysticism and a prehistoric ecosystem that has survived the ages and is thriving  today. The scenery of the desert, lights up the imagination, and carries away even the most unimaginative beings to dreams of other worlds.  

My next favorite thing about Palm Desert was the tributes to the  history of the Native American tribes that have lived in the region for ages that are revered and celebrated.  Several tributes and gathering areas are dedicated to local Native American tribes.  Visitors are enlightened and schooled on the ongoing presence and governance of the desert by these ancient tribes that have survived natural and man-made adversity. 

The city is filled with art galleries and museums.  There are parks filled with art and sculpture.  Palm desert has somewhat Phoenician esthetic that blends well with modernism. The effect exists in the architecture and city layout. A get away for esthetic pharaohs. Luxury shops line the main boulevard.  Pristine golf courses and world class resorts stream out from the main gathering areas.  Grocery stores filled with gourmet foods and delis can be found in several locations. Gorgeous mid-century homes, low of roof and expansive in living space, rest behind adobe walls, giving just a hint of what lies behind those walls. It’s all lovely to the eye and the city still maintains a sense of community.  

And then, of course, the tea. My tea stop this time was Soto Voce.  A small modern cafe located at The Paseo, a local shopping area.  The offerings would satisfy any sophisticated and worldly tea drinker.  Conversations in languages from around the world drifted around my head.  There were a lot of darling pups. It seemed that most of the guests had brought their favorite furry pal to accompany them for an afternoon chat and treat. 

After all of this tea, history, and glorious beauty, I was thoroughly warmed up and ready to take on another week of chilly weather. This get away did not disappoint. The desert is austere, yet colorful. Quiet, yet sings with the songs of desert wildlife.  Remote, yet right there in your heart.  

Hot Chocolate With Mermaids

Traveling is a joy, and especially traveling to places in the world with awesome beverages such as Tea. Tea travels set out for Seattle amidst the cold wintry month of February. This author also has an old friend who ended up living there, so I decided to reconnect while exploring and enjoying the port city.  Before we go on, a small disclaimer, tea travels ended up trying the coffee and then Chocolate Chaude, (French version of hot chocolate),  in Seattle v. Tea. Rest assured, we will resume tea reviews in future posts. 

Once I arrived at SEA-TAC airport, Uber Black was summoned for a lux ride into the city.  The stay was a boutique hotel at Pike’s Place, a hub of history and endless entertainment for those new and known to Seattle. Pike’s Place is a turn of the century, industrial marketplace, and the birthplace of Starbucks. The market is known for fresh fish, and brawny nice guys that throw fish. I chose a B&B that was right next door and had a lovely room with plush amenities, facing away from the Puget Sound, looking over a sea of high rises. This was particularly fun in the middle of the night when I had to get up for leg cramps. I watched Seattle street life in the early morning hours. It took away the cramps from hiking around the city and it was fascinating and beautiful. The glossy structures were lighted from within.  Some people walked, some drove slowly surveying the street scene.  It was clear, not foggy at all, and the city hummed all through the night, as all exciting and  big cities tend to do.   

On my block was a fantastic french cafe, Cafe Campagne.  I decide to head there first for a good meal, and to relive my glory days as a professional dancer at The Lido, in France. As I stepped into the cafe, I felt as if I stepped back in time,  and I was once again at a neighborhood bistro in Paris. The cafe was paneled with antique wood, and lettered in gold leaf with typical cafe signage. 

 The food was delicious and satisfying. To top it off, the menu offerings included the French drinkable and decadent desert, Chocolate Chaude. Pure melted chocolate with a dollop or two of fresh full fat cream.  I had to try it, and it was luscious, smooth and rich.  Afterwards, rather than sink into a chocolate induced coma, I decided to walk off the rich beverage.  

After dinner I took a walk down to the market. Walking downhill, I faced the Puget Sound.  The fresh sea air infused the early evening with enriched oxygen.  Out in the bay, boats glided on sparkling waters and the sunset cast a glow across the city.  Some clouds drifted along, gray with moisture that would soon be released onto The Sound and the surrounding forests.  I passed the historic Starbucks and a long line, the length of one block oozed out of the coffee shop.  People waited, laughing and enjoying the early evening and anticipating the one of kind experience of visiting the very first Starbucks.  Rather than head there in the early morning, I chose Panier, an authentic French patisserie and had a Cafe au Lait with a butter croissant, another favorite from the days in Paris.  

Later on, I met my friend, on the pier for clam chowder and we reminisced and talked about our lives, trying to catch up on 40 years of life experience.  We later walked the city and planned for another meetup now that we had reconnected.  The most important thing about Seattle was not the tea, the coffee or the sightseeing, for me it was my friend and the people.  The people were down to earth and very nice. I was so glad to reconnect with someone who had been such an important part of my teenage life. 

Cha Tea Cha

Georgetown, Washington DC, is ancient by California standards. Historic events that shaped our country took place centuries ago amongst the ancient worn cobblestones and brick townhomes.  To walk the roads of Georgetown, is to fall into a magical portal that transports the voyager to another time; exciting and somewhat exotic.  Raucous and prestigious at the same time, if that is possible. If you have ever studied history and the forging of our nation, you will quickly understand that our forefathers were a wild lot.  Braving a new land teeming with danger, they defied all odds and created the greatest nation on earth.  

But, I regress.  This is not a history lesson on Georgetown, this is a story about tea.  Real tea from China, served traditionally with all of the wonderful and magical elements of taking tea in China. Except I’m in Georgetown with one of my oldest and most loved friends.  We’ve know each other since were babies, our mothers being best friends, and it’s going on almost 60 years. My friend is one of the most gracious, kind, intelligent and fun people that I know and had invited me to the East Coast for an action packed visit full of sight seeing and many many laughs.   We were in Georgetown. It’s raining hard.  We have to peer through a heavy curtain of gray rain to see where we are going. But we don’t give up. The destination is Ching Ching Cha.  Self-described as: “Ching Ching Cha provides a peaceful sanctuary sharing the experience of the Chinese tea ritual and original tea houses cuisine.” 

The tea room  is located adjacent to the C&O Canal tow path in a tiny historic building.  It was raining and chilly, but we took time anyway to admire the canal, which was completed in the 1800’s and used to ship goods. Eventually the canal became obsolete, as it was not as efficient as the railroad and it became a community with all types of homes and shanties until it became a National Park.  The canal is living history and I had never seen anything like it.  

Before we got to drenched, we speeded up and rushed in from the rain.  We entered a small welcoming hallway with a place for umbrellas and made our way toward the tea room.  The tea room itself is open and spacious with wood paneling low tea tables and large cushions to relax like a Pasha against the wall as tea was served.  The tables much like low platforms showcase the tea that will arrive soon and the meals that you might decide to order with it. 

My friend says I should share a link, so you know what we looked like:

https://www.artnet.com/artists/alexandre-gabriel-decamps/a-reclining-pasha-KqGEwF4x44LXvyZ3poqP7w2

 

I order green tea which has properties that contribute to a long and healthy life.  The Monkey King Green Tea from Anhui Provence in China. It comes in a glass carafe with a glass teacup and is presented by our hostess. Beads of moisture cling to the steaming hot glass and long green shoots of tea, a floating island of fluorescent chlorophyll, floats and bobs languorously in the bubbling water.  I take a cautionary sip.  The flavor is fresh, verdant, and grassy. I flashback to childhood days spent in the park across the street from my house,  rolling in freshly mowed grass, burrowing my nose in the silky wet strands, and inhaling a mixture of the earth and vegetation. 

We drink our tea. We reminisce. We enjoy the tea room ambiance, which is open, airy, relaxed, and friendly.  After about 20 minutes, the tea is working its magic, and feeling refreshed, we head out for more sightseeing and walking the city. Cha Cha Ching is a unique experience and a must if you want to step into a magical world and experience a Chinese Tea Room and the teas of China. It’s exotic, amazing and fun and a tea experience that is not to be missed. 

Freezing Love

LPhoto by Raj Rana on Unsplash

It was a freezing night in Southern California. The coldest in recorded history to be exact.  I sat in the steaming jacuzzi while freezing rain poured down the drops heavy and cold drenching my head. My hair was plastered to my scalp and fresh raindrops poured down my face, I looked at my grandson and asked him how he was doing.  Through the steam and rain, he smiled with a huge grin and shouted through the sounds of water jets, wind, and pouring rain, “I’m good Grandma, this is fun”! 

Surprisingly, there were others in the hotel Jacuzzi too.  Everyone was enjoying the rare rainfall and enjoying the drenching. The wind whipped around the pool area, blowing over furniture, sweeping away towels and robes, and the palm trees swayed and danced.  The palm fronds above us were blowing madly to the music of winter wind and weather.  I thought that maybe we should go in and not risk getting chilled, but the steamy,  whirling water was keeping all of us warm and toasty.  We all had pink cheeks and steam rising from our drenched bodies.  People chatted as if nothing was unusual and life went on.  I sunk into the hot water and let the jet streams do their work on tired muscles and aching bones.  I asked him, “Do you want to sit in the bubbles?”  Slowly he inched his way around not wanting to fall off the ledge as he had many times before and receiving a rude dunking. He had obviously learned his lessons.  He lowered himself next to the bubbles. “This is great Grandma!”. 

I sat in the heat and bubbles and tried to figure out how we were going to get out and make it back to the hotel room.  Our towels were soaked and moving across the cement precariously toward the main pool.  The wind was icy and wet. I figured we would have to bite the bullet and just take the pain.  The sooner the better. The storm wasn’t letting up and as the hour got later, I knew that the temperature would continue to drop.  This vacation was spectacular and freezing, but one of the best I’ve ever had.  And it was only freezing because we’ve become so accustomed to the year-round warmth of the United States’ southern climate.  

We made it back and were thankful for the hot showers.  It was the end of a perfect night and time to get cozy and have more winter fun. 

 

In The Yard

I work online, so much of my day Monday through Friday is spent in front of a screen.  I take breaks and dash about to get the circulation going and when my head is particularly foggy, I walk outside.  A guru once said to find oneself, ground one’s self to the earth. Do this by walking barefoot on the earth itself. The dirt, the grass or whatever type of grass you have.  By walking with our naked feet on the earth, we touch the very minerals we are made of with the soles of our feet. Soul to Earth so to speak. 

This grounding is calming and releases anxious thoughts.  The feel of the earth, the scent of growing herbs and trees is irristible. It’s hard to feel bad outside. The air is clear and full of possibilities.  

Glancing around the yard, I do a quick scan to see what is growing and what is not. What needs trimming and what does not. It’s summer and life is bursting forth beautifully. All colors of the kaleidoscope,  creating a natural masterpiece, created by the first artist, Mother Earth. The grass is almost a flourescent green, it’s so fresh and new and growing so fast.  The hottest part of summer has not arrived yet.  In Southern California that is usually August, September and sometimes October. 

In the garden, an old basil plant from the local organic foods store has taken root. It’s flourishing and the leaves are aromatic and ready for spicing home recipes.  The old fence is still standing. Rabbit wire blocks a section of the yard, so the dog can’t destroy the grass in that particular area of the yard.  The wire is rusted and crooked and worn out sun bleached sticks anchor the wire in place.  

This yard is simple and earthy and has  potential.  It seems to want some landscaping, something a little more sophisticated. That will be another day. 

Photo by Nick Page on Unsplash

Pets In The Night

Photo by Dan Cutler on Unsplash

 

It was a long winter night and the cold had settled in over the oldest district of a small Southern California town established in the heyday of citrus farming.  We tucked ourselves in under blankets and quilts with just our noses peaking out for the occasional breath of fresh frigid air. The chill clung to the old lathe and plaster walls and permeated to the core of the old structures.  Sporadically, throughout the night, gas furnaces would kick on and blast heated air throughout the rooms. The heat would rise and dissipate crushed by the long hours of darkness and chilliness. 

As usual, I was up after just a few hours of sleep.  Noises would wake me. Stirrings of a kitten and a dog. As I made my way down the hallway, I saw the kitten sitting in the hall in the dark. Alert, poised in the doorway looking out into the dark dining room. Seeing feline visions of an Egyptian netherworld or whatever it was that kittens saw that we could not see. A landscape of furnishings for running, jumping and hiding under, a parkour for cats. 

The kitten and dog loved to play night games. I heard them almost everynight running through the house. Joyfully chasing one another from room to room.  The dogs heavy paws thudding across the old fir floors.  Sound effects that made patterns that indicated jumps and gallops.  Circling through the two largest rooms in the tiny old house, brushing through a beaded curtain creating a woody clicking similar to chats being counted.  

The dog is always happy.  Pleased by almost everything. Gentle, a big soft ball of  brown furry velveteen. Each day and through the dark night, she remains gentle and sweet.  Only on guard when she hears something foreign or unknown. If a stranger comes near the door.  I lay back and let those thoughts wash over me.  Thinking of the sweet dog is relaxing and my nerves let go of any constriction and I’m submerged in memories of hugs, warmth, loving people and pets.  Simple things that happen everyday that make me happy and I find myself smiling in the dark.  

I think of getting a puppy.  Bringing even more Love into our home.  I imagine how the three of them; an old sweet dog, a teenage cat and baby dog would play and take care of each other.  

I felt the kitten jump onto my bed and drop something lightly onto my chest. It was too dark to see, so I reach down and felt a small soft ball of felt that we use to play catch during daylight hours.  I didn’t want to wake up and start playing catch, because then I would be really awake and miss out on long hours of luxurious nothing that awaited me for the rest of the night.  

It goes on like this, night after night. Sometimes I have to shut the door, so I don’t hear them and they can’t come in, or I would never get even a few hours of sleep.  Let them play in the night. With the dreams and the spirits that drift through the old house. 

Photo by Ignacio R on Unsplash

Boreal Beauty

Photo by Kevin Wolf on Unsplash

As far back as I can remember, I was told our Earth was green and blue.  A giant marble, hanging in space, a haven of life, air and water.  A carefully calibrated ecosystem that was intelligent, with an inherent ability for adaptation and metamorphosis to support life throughout eons of ecological changes. Green with vegetation, plants and trees and blue with water; oceans, lakes and stream.  A planet that is beautiful and diverse.  

One of her greatest attributes; the Boreal Forest, or Taiga, as it’s known in other parts of the world, covering 6.6 million square miles, a belt of thick, ancient growth over the Northern most regions of the Earth. The Boreal feeds the Earth’s atmosphere and crust, creating a healthy environment for life. All of our forests make our Earth beautiful, clean  and sustain life.  Our unique ecosystems of Earth teem with life and living creatures continue to thrive and evolve. 

Forests were a big part of my youth. My family often went camping  in the Sierra Mountains, which runs almost the full length of California. One of our favorite spots was Yreka. Yreka was in the heart of the mountain range and came to life during the Gold Rush.  On Friday afternoons, we would head out via the interstate, leaving the city.  As we drove away from civilization the road became a two lane highway and  the scenery changed.  The trees became taller and the forest more dense. The trunks, a rich shade of brown covered in soft bark, large limbs shooting out with dark green sprays of spiky needles.  It became quieter and sounds were muted and  hushed, as if in a huge cathedral.  Once we arrived to the campground, there would usually be other campers already arrived and setting up. Small groups of people of all ages, moving about, setting up camping gear to make their camping trips fun and comfortable. We drove to our site and tumbled out of our van into a potent atmospheric elixir, that the huge old trees were secreting from their limbs and sprays of needles. My first breath would fill my airways and lungs with minerals and elements that the huge trees were emitting.  The trees were mostly redwoods and pines and over a hundred feet tall.  When I looked up, I could see their tops far away, touching tiny bits of blue sky.  

The giants stood quietly in place.  Comfortable and loving, making life.  The trees were safe in this protected forest where no man was allowed to rip away life.  Birds flew among the branches. Blue Jays, owls and hawks perched and watched as we humans set up our equipment.  We moved about  purposely setting out aluminum lawn chairs in a circle.  Coleman lanterns to be lit later in the night for playing games and singing songs. Once we were finished with out tasks, we  became more like the trees.  Sitting in one place, communing, talking, becoming quieter and more reverent. As the sun went down we would sit around the campfire gazing  into the flames and dreaming. The heady aroma of wood smoke drifting over our heads and into the branches of the giants hovering over us.  Time was suspended deep in the woods. As each day passed we became quieter, more thoughtful and free.  The hooks and chains of civilization lost their grip. The chains slipping away, with a swooshing sound effect, sliding over the ground cover made of old tree bark, branches, needles, bird droppings and insect casings.  The nights were restful and I would sleep deep and long in our camper.  Once the sun began it’s descent, the air would become crisp, fresh and cold.  After dinner cooked over the fire, I couldn’t wait to get into bed. To snuggle down into my flannel sleeping bag and plunge backward into a deep and mindless sleep. Then waking up with first light. The warm glow of sunshine hitting the canvas sides of our tent trailer and birds calling. 

I found peace in something greater than myself in the mountain forest. Life that had existed well before my kind and was tolerant of human kind. Always  giving back,  like a mother, our Mother Earth. 

Photo by Denys Nevozhai on Unsplash

Inside Sunrise

Photo by Karl Magnuson on Unsplash

There are wonderful things about the world that are beautiful and bring us joy.  One of the most beautiful things on Earth is the sunrise.  You have to be up early to see it.  If you are an early riser, one of the perks is being awake to see the sunrise.   As the sun comes up over the horizon, the first light is a shade of the night sky and then fades into gray and then the true light becomes brighter and begins to take over the sky. The tableau fills with colors. Gold, yellow, shades of blue and white. It’s a magnificent site, one of the most beautiful things on Earth.

The best way to catch the sunrise is to be outdoors with an uncluttered view. This past year,  this has not always been an easy thing to do.  All Californians received daily instructions (if they tuned into any kind of media) to stay inside. So what is a sunrise if it’s seen from inside? Well, I look for the light through the windows  and when I venture into the front or backyard.  I’m surrounded by buildings because I live in the city center.   If I walk into the street, I can look down the street and see across the valley to the North and Mount Baldy. The street is wide and mostly empty at sunrise.  If I look to the southwest, I see a small mountain range that creates a division between the inland valleys and the plains leading to the Pacific Ocean.   Looking north or south we are parallel to the sunrise and sunset. In California, the sun rises in the east and sets in the west over the glorious Pacific.  The sunset over the Pacific Ocean is a kaleidoscope of colors.  Palettes of  violet, red, yellow and blue.  The sunrise is somewhat gentler and sometimes just misty gray. The light gradually infuses; mostly when the winter days are short and often darker.  But eventually there is always sun.  So I look out the windows, past the curtains and take in the beautiful colors and the start of a new day.  A day that is promising and filled with new opportunities for anything. Because everything always changes.

The world has changed over the past year.  Change has broken familiar patterns and habits, making way for the new.  Much like the sunrise breaks through the darkness of night and creates a new sky everyday. When I look at the sunrise through the curtains or stepping outside into the yard or street, I see the brilliance and beauty of the earth and of human existence.  The promise of a new day. 

Photo by Diego PH on Unsplash